Great ribs

I rolled into downtown Memphis about 4:30. It was dead, and I figured this was a city I’d be happy to leave. Turned out that was wrong.

I checked into my downtown semi-budget hotel ($112) and headed out in search of Great Barbecue.

There’s been some debate here on the blog about just where to find the best barbecue in town. Rendevouz is the famous place, but it’s been bashed as “touristy.’’ One of you recommended Central BBQ, but I just couldn’t bring myself to get back in the car.

I asked the woman at the front desk, who confirmed a close-at-hand recommendation I’d gotten from another Tennessean: Blues City Café.

Turns out it’s a funky café on the corner of Beale Street. Pretentious it isn’t: we’re talking concrete floors, brick walls, vinyl booths and formica tables. “Put Some South in Your Mouth,’’ is its motto.

It’s a sad time for the place; chef Bonnie Mack recently died of a heart attack. But the feasting goes on, and what a feast it is!

I bypassed the catfish and tamales – both house specialties – a favor of the ribs. Good choice!

We’re talking wet rub ribs here, slow cooked at 225 degrees for about seven hours, then drenched in a sweet barbecue sauce with just a hint of tanginess (mustard?) underneath. The ribs were easily the most moist I’ve ever had, literally falling off the bone (no hope for getting them to your mouth intact.) The $13.95 half rack nearly killed me with too much food, but it was so yummy I couldn’t resist eating the whole thing.

My vote: Two sticky thumbs up.